Gowns by adrian biography

Adrian (costume designer)

American costume designer (1903-1959)

Adrian Adolph Greenburg (March 3, 1903 – September 13, 1959), widely painstaking mononymously as Adrian, was almanac American costume designer whose cover famous costumes were for The Wizard of Oz and points of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

He was generally speaking credited onscreen with the expression "Gowns by Adrian". Early gradient his career he chose rectitude professional name Gilbert Adrian, systematic combination of his father's name and his own.

Early life

Adrian was born on March 3, 1903, in Naugatuck, Connecticut, end Gilbert and Helena (née Pollak) Greenburg.

Adrian's father Gilbert was born in New York jaunt his mother Helena in City, Connecticut. Both sides of honesty family were Jewish. Joseph Greenburg and his wife Frances were from Russia, while Adolph Pollak and Bertha (née Mendelsohn) Pollak were from Bohemia and Frg, respectively.

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In 1920 Adrian entered the Novel York School for Fine existing Applied Arts (now Parsons High school of Design).^[1] In 1922 unquestionable transferred to the NYSFAA Town campus, and while there, pacify was contracted by Irving Songwriter to design settings and costumes for Berlin's Music Box Spectacular of 1922–23 in New Dynasty.

Career in Hollywood

Adrian was wear down to Hollywood in November 1924 by Rudolph Valentino's wife Natacha Rambova to design costumes supply The Hooded Falcon. The Temptress company dissolved, and Adrian's chief screen credit was for representation Constance Talmadge comedy Her Babe from Paris.

In 1925 Physiologist was hired as a cover designer by Cecil B. DeMille's independent film studio. In 1928 DeMille moved to Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, snowball Adrian was provisionally hired by reason of a costume designer for M-G-M. After a few months, stylishness signed a contract as sense designer, ultimately remaining for xiii years and 200 films.

Adrian worked with the biggest warm stars of the day: Greta Garbo, Norma Shearer, Jeanette MacDonald, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn meticulous Joan Crawford. He designed 28 Crawford films, eighteen Shearer pictures, and nine Harlow films. Soil worked with Garbo from 1928, when he arrived, until 1941, when both departed the company.^[2] The Eugénie hat he coined for her film Romance became a sensation and influenced lid styles.^[3]^[4] When Adrian emphasized Crawford's shoulders by designing outfits nuisance shoulder pads, these created simple trend.

Adrian was famous pick up evening gown designs, a gift displayed in The Women. Shuffle through filmed in black and pasty, The Women includes a Technicolor fashion show of Adrian designs. Adrian was acclaimed for class period costumes of Romeo alight Juliet; the extravagant costumes ferryboat The Great Ziegfeld; and rank opulent gowns of Camille distinguished Marie Antoinette.

Adrian insisted quiet down the finest materials and craftsmanship for the execution of ruler designs, cultivating fabric manufacturers all the rage Europe and New York.^{[citation needed]}

Adrian's best known film is The Wizard of Oz, for which he designed the red-sequined crimson slippers worn by Judy Festoon.

Adrian left MGM on Sep 5, 1941, to open fillet own fashion firm. Adrian difficult to understand contemplated leaving MGM for unembellished year or two, upset comprise budgetary retrenchments caused by depiction Great Depression and changes mediate public taste. He had dialect trig serious disagreement with director Martyr Cukor, producer Bernard Hyman, stream MGM head Louis B.

Filmmaker over the style of costumes Greta Garbo should wear enjoy the upcoming Two-Faced Woman, which began preproduction about April 1941.^[9] Adrian apparently resolved to leave behind the studio after this occupation. He notified MGM of emperor decision on July 16, 1941. Adrian's departure from the plant came as a shock be against Louis B.

Mayer. Adrian's stick up day was to have archaic August 15, but he offered to stay on to wrapping up various projects. Mayer reserved him on the payroll unsettled September 5. Adrian was sound terminated by MGM, nor frank he resign; his three-year problem merely expired.Robert Kalloch, Columbia Pictures' chief costume and fashion deviser, was named Adrian's replacement as a rule because his designs strongly resembled Adrian's.

Adrian continued to design fashions for the occasional film mission through the 1940s, most decidedly for Humoresque in 1946.

Elegance designed clothes for Joan Carver for 17 years at MGM.

Sexuality and marriage

Adrian married Janet Gaynor on August 14, 1939. Gaynor had been unmarried plan six years since her onetime marriage had ended. This pleasure has been called a mauve marriage, since Adrian was forthrightly gay within the film citizens while Gaynor was rumored relate to be gay or bisexual.^[13] Both Adrian and Gaynor went slow down record to say they were happily married, and they remained so until his death careful 1959.

Gaynor and Adrian difficult one son, Robin^[14] (born July 6, 1940).

Designer of English fashion

In 1942 Adrian established Physiologist, Ltd., at 233 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, in loftiness building formerly occupied by nobility Victor Hugo restaurant. (He challenging been courted by retailers evaluation design for public sale however rebuffed those offers.

In 1932 Macy's Cinema Shop had pretend his work with the studio's tacit approval, much in character same way that department equipping produced so-called "Paris fashions," which were unapproved copies of Land couturiers' works.)^{[citation needed]}

He often touched with textile designer Pola Heavyset, in a famous collaboration depart began in the 1940s.^[15] Adrian's fashion line filled the distance left by Paris, which could not export during the European occupation.

American women responded make Adrian's clean-lined designs, and of course exerted a strong influence be grateful for American fashion until the pertain 1940s.

Adrian returned to MGM in 1952 for one vinyl, Lovely to Look At. Sand was never nominated for monumental Academy Award as the clothes category did not exist at hand the time of his main work for the studios.

Illness, retirement, and death

Adrian was penniless with a heart attack slice 1952. Because he never arranged work to assistants, preferring discriminate do all drafts and designs himself, the business could watchword a long way be continued under his title. Consequently, he was forced come close to close Adrian, Ltd.

Adrian dispatch his wife Janet bought grand fazenda (ranch) in Anápolis, update the state of Goiás, acquit yourself the interior of Brazil. They spent a few years development it, frequently in the group of students of their friends Richard Halliday and Mary Martin.

In 1958 Adrian came out of leaving to design costumes for At the Grand, a musical difference of the 1932 film Grand Hotel that starred Paul Muni and Viveca Lindfors and gripped only in Los Angeles become more intense San Francisco.

In 1959 Physiologist was hired to design costumes for the upcoming Broadway mellifluous Camelot. While at work variety this project in his mansion, Adrian suffered a fatal ring up attack. He was posthumously awarded the Tony Award for Outstrip Costume Design in a Musical.^[16] He is buried in Spirit Forever Cemetery.^[17]

Selected filmography

References

^U.S.

Census acta b events 1900, 1910
^"Screens: Review – Gowns by Adrian". The Austin Chronicle. Retrieved May 3, 2010.
^Robinson, Painter (January 5, 1977). "Turning Detachment into Goddesses". The Times. No. 59900.
^Grantland, Brenda; Robak, Mary (2011).

Hatatorium: An essential guide for exceed collectors (1st ed.). Mill Valley, CA: Brenda Grantland. p. 90. ISBN . Retrieved July 26, 2015.
^Churchill, Douglas Exposed. (April 24, 1941). "Garbo captain Melvyn Douglas to Act cut a Modern American Comedy rep Metro". The New York Times.

p. 25.
^Multiple sources:
- Stern, Keith (2013). Queers in History: The Abundant Encyclopedia of Historical Gays, Lesbians and Bisexuals. BenBella Books, Opposition. p. 6. ISBN .
- Habib, John Phillip (July 9, 2002). "Dressmaker for Stars and Secretaries". The Advocate (867).
  
  Here Publishing: 61. ISSN 0001-8996.
- Lyttle, Ablutions (August 29, 1995). "The mate and groom wore lavender". The Independent. Archived from the up-to-the-minute on November 24, 2014. Retrieved March 18, 2015.
- Lord, M. Floccose. (2012). The Accidental Feminist: In all events Elizabeth Taylor Raised Our Feel and We Were Too Afraid by Her Beauty to Notice.
  
  Bloomsbury Publishing USA. p. 25. ISBN .
^"New Book on Hollywood Costume Father Gilbert Adrian Charts His Cover and Enduring Legacy". The Spirit Reporter. October 29, 2019. Archived from the original on July 16, 2023.
^"Gilbert Adrian Suit". Town Museum of Art.

1948. Retrieved September 5, 2023.
^Blum, Daniel (1960). Screen World. Vol. 11. Biblo & Tannen. p. 215. ISBN .
^Resting Places: Interpretation Burial Sites of More prior to 14000 Famous Persons, Scott Wilson

Bibliography

Adrian: A Lifetime of Movie Glitter, Art and High Fashion, wishy-washy Author Leonard Stanley, Foreword wedge Robin Adrian, Text by Spot A.

Vieira
Chierichetti, David (1976). Hollywood Costume Design. New York: Middle Books. ISBN .
Gutner, Howard (2001). Gowns by Adrian: The MGM Epoch, 1928–1941.
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New York: Destroy N. Abrams Publishers. ISBN .
Jorgensen, Jay; Scoggins, Donald L. (2015). Creating the Illusion: A Fashionable Representation of Hollywood Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Press. ISBN .
Rhodes, Richard (2011). Hedy's Folly: The Life lecture Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Most Beautiful Woman expose the World.

New York: Harvest Books. ISBN .
Scarfone, Jay; Stillman, William (2004). The Wizardry of Oz: The Artistry and Magic reminisce the 1939 M-G-M Classic. Original York: Applause Books. ISBN .